Coral Construction: Manda Maweni Quarry
Before you even step off the boat, the most prominent construction material in this part of Kenya catches your eye. “White gold” is how many here refer to the cream-white coral brick. Construction in Shela is an interesting endeavor. There are no cars in town and the closest vehicle is an ambulance in Lamu Town. Virtually all of the coral brick used for construction in Shela is hauled here via donkey (more on that later). All of this makes construction in this community costly and labor-intensive. But where does this highly sought after material come from? And why is it so widely preferred as a construction material?
Just across the water from Shela Town is the island of Manda Maweni, beneath which sits a major deposit of white dead coral rock strata. What was once a relatively uninhabited island is now home to an entire community that works in the coral rock quarry. As we approached the island on boat, dozens of works came into view, forming a human chain as they passed each other bags of coral rock to load onto boats.
We were immediately greeted by a self-appointed tour guide as we stepped on shore who walked us deeper into town. From a cursory glance, everyone seemed to be connected to the quarry operation. Everywhere we looked, row after row of the mined bricks were neatly stacked. Our tour guide explained how the bricks were mined by hand into specific nominal sizes then sorted accordingly.
Some are used as is for brickwork while others are ground up into a powder and made into cement. Newly harvested coral rock is soft, but as it’s exposed to the sun, it undergoes a hardening process called seasoning. During this seasoning, a crystalline structure is formed on the outer layer of the rock, rendering the stone more resistant to moisture, a valuable quality in coastal regions. Once the coral is harvested, it’s transported on boat to various towns. All coral taken to Lamu and Shela is unloaded onto donkeys for delivery to various construction sites.
The quarry on Manda Maweni has provided a livelihood for many families, allowing some to earn as much as $10 per day. But the quarry town has not been without its challenges. Drinking water must be brought in from Lamu Town and there are no medical services available on Manda Maweni. Still, this quarry town is fueled by the need for development on the surrounding islands. With the development of a major port underway in Lamu County, the population is expected to explode, even by the most conservative estimates. And as the population grows, so too will the need for white gold.
